There are many types of circle skirts depending on the fracture of a circle the skirt is made of. If you wish to sew a skirt that will have a light flounce, pick a quarter circle skirt. If you wish to make a skirt, that will spin in the air charmingly, go for a circle skirt. As you can see there are multiple skirt types to choose from.
In this blog post, I’ll show you how to make a circle skirt and prepare corresponding pattern of the following skirts:
- How to draft circle skirt patterns
- Fullness of individual circle skirts
- How to draft a quarter (1/4) circle skirt pattern
- How to draft a half circle (1/2) circle skirt pattern
- How to draft a three quarter (3/4) circle skirt pattern
- How to draft a full calculate circle (1) skirt pattern
- How to draft a one and a half circle skirt pattern
- How to draft a double circle skirt pattern
- How to draft a circle skirt waistband
If you wish to skip all the math and pattern construction details, you can go to my online circle skirt calculator.
What is a circle skirt?
A circle skirt (also referred to as circular skirt) is, as its name suggests, such a skirt that is cut from a circle, a fraction of a circle or several circles. Both hem and the waist of the cut out pattern are curved. As you can see in the image below, the smaller the circle fraction, the bigger the circle radius at the waist and at the hem of the skirt.
The image below depicts four different types of the circle skirts with the same waist circumference and skirt length.
Although it is possible to sew some types of a circle skirts from one piece of fabric (as you can see in the image above), I recommend sewing them from two identical pieces (FRONT and BACK pieces with side seams). The reason for this is that the drafted pattern is easier to store and the arrangement of pattern pieces on the fabric is easier too.
How to draft corresponding patterns
To draft a circle skirt of any type, always start with a point that will become the center of two concentric circles.
The radius of the inner (smaller) circle will be based on your waist circumference and it is referred to as radius for waist in this tutorial.
The radius of the outer (larger) circle will be based on your waist circumference plus the length of the skirt. In this tutorial, it is referred to as radius for hem.
Depending on the type of skirt you have chosen, calculate the radiuses both for the waist and hem, then cut out the corresponding fraction of a circle (see the calculations and schemes below).
Fullness of individual circle skirts
The quarter circle skirt has the smallest fullness and has almost no flounce as is made of a small portion of the circle. On the other hand, a double circle skirt is constructed by sewing two full circles together, thus having the largest fullness and prominent flounces. In the images you can see some knee-length skirts. On the very left a quarter circle skirt and on the very right a double circle skirt.
How to draft a quarter (1/4) circle skirt
A quarter circular skirt is one quarter of a full circle. This quarter has to be divided into to pieces in order to make separate FRONT and BACK pattern pieces. The FRONT and also the BACK are symmetrical. Therefore you can draft only one half of them. The Center FRONT and Center BACK will be placed on fabric fold.
Use the formula below to calculate radius at waist and hem:
radius for waist = (2 ⨯ (waist circumference + ease) ) / π
radius for hem = radius for waist + skirt length
π = 3.14
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Do not forget to add seam allowances and hem allowance to the pattern pieces.
How to draft a half circle (1/2) circle skirt
A half circular skirt is one half of a full circle. This half has to be divided into to pieces in order to make separate FRONT and BACK pattern pieces. The FRONT and also the BACK are symmetrical. Therefore you can draft only one half of them. The Center FRONT and Center BACK will be placed on fabric fold.
Use the formula below to calculate radius at waist and hem:
radius for waist = (waist circumference + ease) / π
radius for hem = radius for waist + skirt length
π = 3.14
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Do not forget to add seam allowances and hem allowance to the pattern pieces.
How to draft a three quarter (3/4) circle skirt pattern
A three quarter circle skirt is 3/4 of a whole circle, which has to be divided into to pieces in order to make separate FRONT and BACK pattern pieces. The FRONT and also the BACK are symmetrical. Therefore you can draft only one half of them. The Center FRONT and Center BACK will be placed on fabric fold.
Use the formula below to calculate radius at waist and hem:
radius for waist = ((4/3) ⨯ (waist circumference + ease)) / (2 ⨯ π)
radius for hem = radius for waist + skirt length
π = 3.14
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Do not forget to add seam allowances and hem allowance to the pattern pieces.
How to draft a full circle skirt pattern
A circle skirt is made of a whole circle. This whole circle has to be divided into to pieces in order to make separate FRONT and BACK pattern pieces. The FRONT and also the BACK are symmetrical. Therefore you can draft only one half of them. The Center FRONT and Center BACK will be placed on fabric fold.
Use the formula below to calculate radius at waist and hem:
radius for waist = (waist circumference + ease) / (2 ⨯ π)
radius for hem = radius for waist + skirt length
π = 3.14
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Do not forget to add seam allowances and hem allowance to the pattern pieces.
How to draft a one and a half circle skirt pattern
I would recommend sewing this one from two 3/4 circles ( 3/4 + 3/4 = 1.5 circle). Adding the necessary seam allowances to connect the two pieces is easier than with one whole circle and an additional half circle (see the formula and scheme below).
Use the formula below to calculate radius at waist and hem:
radius for waist = (waist circumference + ease) / (3 ⨯ π)
radius for hem = radius for waist + skirt length
π = 3.14
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Do not forget to add seam allowances and hem allowance to the pattern pieces.
How to draft a double circle skirt pattern
This one is a little tricky, because you have to draw a two whole circles, that will become one skirt. Apart from ease, you have to add seam allowances into the equation.
radius for waist = ((waist circumference + ease) / 2 + 2 ⨯ seam allowance) / (2 ⨯ π)
radius for hem = radius for waist + skirt length
π = 3.14
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Do not forget to add seam allowances and hem allowance to the pattern pieces.
How to draft a circle skirt waistband?
Elastic waistband casing
The elastic waistband casing is a great choice for every sewing beginner and a super time saver for everyone as you do not have to sew a zipper into the skirt as with the fixed waistband. Use a standard jersey or rib jersey fabric to create one. The easiest way to apply an elastic waistband is with a circle skirt made of knit fabric.
You can also insert an elastic band into the casing so that the skirt will hold better at the waist. The knit fabric of the casing may lose its elasticity with wear and tear. So, the elastic band inside will prevent the skirt waist from slipping down. I like to make the elastic a little more tight so I subtract about 2 – 5 cm (1 – 2”) from the waist circumference.
Instead of a casing, you can go for a nice, decorative elastic band directly sewn to the circle skirt.
Elastic waistband casing with knit fabric.
Elastic waistband with knit fabric.
Fixed straight waistband
With a fixed waistband you will get a nice snug fit at the waist (see the image below). However, keep in mind that you have to sew a zipper on the skirt, so that you can put it on :). Use one that is about 25 cm (10”) long. You can choose between a concealed zipper (invisible zipper) and an exposed zipper.
Concealed zipper.
Exposed zipper.
If you are concerned the zipper might open, sew a hook and eye just above it. In this case, the upper edge of the zipper will be not aligned with the upper edge of the waistband.
If you wish to hem these skirts, you can try applying a bias binding tape.
If I’m making a half-circle skirt with 2 panels, will the seams go up the sides? And if I want a zipper, would it be best to put this on the side?
Hi Silvana,
Yes, for a two-panel half-circle skirt, the zipper is usually placed along one of the side seams. Typically, the left side is preferred if you’re right-handed, and the right side if you’re left-handed, for easier access.
Anicka
Ah, Ok thank you Anicka!
how do you calculate a 1/3 circle skirt a bit narrower than a half circle
Hi Estie,
If I understand your question correctly, you want to draft a 1/3 circle skirt instead of a 1/2 or 1/4 circle skirt.
The formula is as follows:
radius at waist = (3 × (waist circumference + ease at waist)) / (2 × pi)
radius at them = radius at waist + skirt length
pi = 3.14
You will also need to decide how many panels you want to draft the skirt from.
If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.
Best regards,
Anicka